Hide The Stitches: The Magic Of The Serger

While most people like to buy ready-to-use garments or ready-to-wear clothes, there are some that take pride in making clothes and other garments more personal by making these themselves. One might get the idea of people, mostly womenfolk flocked together with needle and thread happily chatting away while sewing (it is lovely) but no. Even the craftiest people need machines to help with otherwise tedious tasks.

In sewing, one technique is making a blind hem.  It is a way of having the least visible stitches on the outer side of the garment and has all the stitches on the reverse side. Well technically, there is no magic in doing this but this technique makes stitches in a way that there are only angled third or fourth stitches that appear on the outer side of the garment. There hadn’t been a way to do this with a regular sewing machine or a top quilting machine until the serger was introduced.

cut the fabricThe Serger is also known in the industry as an Overlock Machine. If one is to be more technical, it is a type of a sewing machine. It does a more finished job than a sewing machine quicker and easier since it eliminates extra work that has to be done when the sewing machine cannot handle it.

One aspect of sewing projects that benefits the most from serger is sewing blind stitches on hems. When dealing with the hem, the less visible stitches there are, the better. Here are simple steps on how to sew a blind hem:


Whatever project you are working on, cut the desired size of the garment.


Depending on the depth of press desired press down on all the sides of the cloth necessary for the stitching. Usually, 5/8 will do for projects with four sides but some use 1 for a deeper press. After this, set the serger to the longest length of stitches for better results.


Use the same method of folding to expose the raw edge of the garment as you would do on a regular sewing machine. It is definitely up to the standards of the project being worked on how far to fold as long the needle is sure to catch the fold.


ALIGN THE FOLDRemember the importance of the previous step; this is where its use becomes apparent. The needle markings would be where the fold would be aligned. As it goes, it is up to the specifics of the project or the caprice of the person to determine the depth of the hem and accordingly, the exposed area will be left for the knife to cut through.



After all these, run the machine all the way through the end of the hem. At this point, the fold on the left is where the needle catches on.

If one is to examine the resulting stitches, they are uniform and all that’s left to do is to flatten it out and a perfectly aligned hem is done. Press away and off to the next project.

Finally let’s watch the video: